So, this certainly is a new venture for Keturah Brown. I'm yet to understand what a blog is! I am fully trusting my guide, and marketing assistant, Celyn to lead me into this brave new world.
Over the coming months I hope to share some observations, humour, tips and some of my wisdom from the world of Lingerie, a Bias View...
Images of Vionnet designs
"Queen of the bias cut"
I would like to start off with a little bit of trivia on clothing design. Madeleine Vionnet is a name synonymous with elegant dress designs of the 1930's. Creating sleek and sensual dresses which popularised the Bias Cut technique in dress making. For any of you who have studied dress making, this name will be familiar to you. Her technique involves cutting cloth diagonal to the grain of the fabric, allowing it to cling to the body whilest also stretching and moving with the wearer. Though Vionnet was not the inventor of this method, she was the first to use bias cuts throughout the entire garment. Her designs changed the way future designers approached women's clothing. It revolutionised the world of Coutour. If you ever come across a 1930s Vionnet original piece, you are holding on to a piece of history and something quite special.
Vionnet is still an established brand creating wonderful designs for today.
If you want to find out more about Vionnet I recommend the book Fashion Memoir: Vionnet by Lydia Kamitsis or you can visit the official Vionnet website www.vionnet.com
It was during my time designing evening dresses in Rome, that I really embraced the possibilities of cutting on the Bias. From 1969 - 70 I worked as a designer at La Mendola, located at the top of the famous Spanish Steps. In the cutting room (next door to Valentino) the floor would be littered with some of the most beautiful silks and satins, all remnants from cutting on the Bias. I developed my passion for working with this technique, which later translated into my lingerie designs.